Archipelag VANUATU
Mój przyjaciel –
Leszek „Les” Kosek, to Polak mieszkający w Australii. Znany
podróżnik i odkrywca. Jachtowy Kapitan Żeglugi Wielkiej który
wyemigrował w połowie lat 80-tych z ówczesnego PRL-u. Przedtem - członek
wyprawy Polskiego Klubu Górskiego w Himalaje Nepalu w 1982 i uczestnik
żeglarskiej wyprawy jachtem dookoła Hornu. Autor książki "Ze Wschodu
na Zachód Dookoła Hornu".
W latach 1984 – 85, na
pokładzie wybudowanego przez siebie w Polsce jachtu, odbył liczne
podróże po płd. - zach. Pacyfiku. Odwiedził: Archipelagi Markizów,
Tuamotu (m.in. był na atolu Raroia - miejscu gdzie zakończyła swa
wyprawę słynna tratwa Kon-Tiki ), Tonga, Fiji, Western Samoa, Vanuatu,
Nową Zelandia i Australię.
W roku 1984 pracował
jako rybak na wodach Bay of Islands w NZ a potem zwiedził Północna i
Południowa Wyspę Nowej Zelandii gdzie organizował górską wyprawę
wspinaczkowa na Mount Aspiring.
W 1985 roku sprzedał
jacht i osiedlił się na stale w Australii gdzie – w następnych latach,
dokonał wielu wypraw w głąb australijskiego Outbacku (m.in. dwukrotnie
przemierzył słynną Pustynie Simpsona).
W ciągu następnego
dwudziestolecia zajął się organizacją wypraw i myśliwskich safari w głąb
australijskiego Outbacku. Przyjaciel Aborygenów, ciągle odwiedza i
utrzymuje kontakty z ludźmi którzy mieszkają i pracują w miejscach
odległych od utartych szlaków turystycznych. Aktualnie - wstępując w
ślady Księcia Sapiehy (znanego organizatora myśliwskich safari w Kenii),
Leszek Kosek został organizatorem safari w głębi Australijskiego buszu.
Wielokrotnie organizował je dla myśliwych z Niemiec, Polski, Litwy,
Nowej Zelandii, Danii, Norwegii, USA, Kanady, Wielkiej Brytanii,
Australii, Holandii, Indonezji, Hiszpanii, Francji.
W 2002 roku odbył
wyprawę do Namibii, po której zainteresował się przygotowywaniem wypraw
myśliwskich do wszystkich zakątków świata. Dzisiaj organizuje polowania
w Kanadzie na białe niedźwiedzie, w Afryce na lwy, bawoły, krokodyle i
słonie, jak również na bawoły błotne, dingo i kangury w Australii, oraz
polowania na tzw. "man-eaters" (wyjątkowo niebezpieczne zwierzęta
zabijające ludzi!) - lwy i słonie w Afryce i tygrysy w Indonezji!
Leszek jest autorem
kilkudziesięciu artykułów na temat muślistwa, żeglowania, wypraw,
survivalu itp. które napisał do australijskich i polskich czasopism.
Obecnie wydaje anglojęzyczny podręcznik myśliwski (tzw. "manual") dla
tych, co myślą o polowaniach w Australii, jak również osobną pracę p.t.
"Jak przeżyć australijski Outback"(po polsku).
Ostatnio Leszek wytropił w dżunglach Indonezji nowe, nie
znane jeszcze nauce zwierzę. Jest to tzw. Nangoy albo King Pig – wielka,
dzika świnia osiągającą 250 kg żywej wagi. Ma różowa skorę bez włosów.
Pokazuje się tylko w sierpniu kiedy wychodzi z dżungli, aby się paść na
plantacjach kokosów. Jak dotychczas nie udało mu się odszukać łacińskiej
nazwy tego zwierzęcia, ktore nie pasuje pod ogólnie przyjęte opisy tzw.
"bearded pigs" czyli świń brodatych zamieszkujących Azję od
Filipin, poprzez Wietnam do Indonezji.
Bolek Uryn
Vanuatu
-
former New Hebrides was a joint Anglo French Colony before it gained
independence in mid 70's. Before that the country was called " An
Anglo-French Condominium" but it was largely know as "Pandemonium" where
British and French jointy ruled the islands and where two vastly
different administrations operated on equal terms for some past 100
years. The second biggest Island in The Archipelago is Malekula,
otherwise known as Mallicollo.
It was a home to Small and Big Nambas tribes whos
preferred pastime activities were raiding each other villages,
afterwards conducting some cannibalistic feasts upon dead bodies of
their adversaries. The Small Nambas territory has been opened to outside
visitors as late as as mid 80's of the past century where I have
penetreated into their bush realms. Now Small Nambas villagers accept
visitors and they can show them such intriguing wonders as their tribal
grounds Nakamal Houses (Houses of Men) where local women folk has no
right to enter, the MIA WWII American Air Force aircraft fighters fallen
in the jungle hills where those, along with the remains of their pilots
are still there to be seen, and they can tell hair rising stories from
the past about Australian Blackbirders ships praying on unsuspecting
natives and of cannibalistic feast from the past when their forefathers
enjoyed the meals of "A Long White Pig" cooked in earth ovens. Today,
Malekula Island is the last frontier for a true adventurer to be
discovered - there is no any tourist facilities to speak of and once one
lands himself on Malekula shores, it is up to his wits and survival
skill to explore this mystique place.
B.U.
Small Nambas
Tribe of Malekula
Leszek
“Les“ Kosek
A U S T R A L I A
http://www.australia-hunting.info/
Visiting some of the
Pacific Islands of Melanesia is a rare experience. It is like
discovering South Pacific tropical paradise locked in a time warp. One
of these islands is Malekula as know to English or Mallicolo to French.
This is the second biggest island in Vanuatu Chain. It is seldom seen by
outside visitors because of the complete absence of modern type
facilities like air conditioned hotels and basic tourist services. If
anybody lands himself in Malekula, existing facilities are parallel to
those which were available in 18 century! For adventurous individuals
who don’t mind camping in the bush or dwelling with the locals in their
bamboo huts, the island offers an unforgettable escapade in the
tradition of Great Explorers of a bygone era. Deep in the southern hills
of Malekula in the heavily wooded interior, the colorful tribes of the
Small Nambas live. Because no missionaries or settlers penetrated here,
some 500 tribesmen living in many scattered villages have retained
almost all of their primitive customs right up to the present. The men
wear small penis wrappers – nambas – made of banana leaves. Animism and
ancestor worship are practiced side by side with variations of
Christianity. Age-old customs and taboos still prevail. Young hogs have
their canines knocked out to allow room for their tusks to grow into
full circles. These great spiral tusks are extracted and polished after
the death of the hog and used in the crafting of bracelets, anklets,
pendants and masks. The interior of Malekula is still largely wild and
untamed. Covered with lush tropical greenery and of breathtaking beauty,
the bush is abundant with fruit – coconut, mango, poovo, orange,
grapefruit, banana and cocoa. There are plenty fish and shrimp I
numerous creeks where crystal clear water streams down from the
hilltops. Emerald green foliage cascades from cliff ridges creeping
everywhere. This is the home for birds, cane rats, flying foxes and wild
pigs and wild cattle and there are no venomous or poisonous snakes,
spiders or ticks or scorpions or leeches to threaten humans. There is
abundant bird life on the island. The earliest settlers in Vanuatu may
have been Oceanic Pygmies who decided that volcanic islands with fertile
soils and generous climate were “just like home” when environment marked
by steep terrain and few proteins was a key factor favoring the
development of dwarfism.The existence of tiny people who live in caves
in the most inaccessible inland parts of Malekula is part of a verbal
tradition which exists today in Vanuatu. For 4000 to 5000 years, until
Europeans came to Vanuatu, the development of culture had taken place in
an environment where communication between small groups of people was
inhibited by both physical (dense jungle, rugged volcanic country) and
language difficulties (total no-comprehension of what the people living
over the next hill said!) The absence of communication produced fear,
suspicion and hostility between neighbours. Since the land was generally
fertile, there was significant leisure time, especially for men. This
time could be put to the good use in making war on one’s neighbours or
to tell and enlarge upon stories about ghosts and mythical powers
abundant in the bush. The irresistible need to make war with strangers
(the common curse set upon human beings since eons, regardless of race
or origin!) and the more practical requirements for occasional supply of
protein called for invention and development of weapons. The wide array
of wooden clubs served the purpose when killing of domesticated hogs,
political opponents and POW were concerned.
The more complicated task
of stalking and shooting at elusive game or enemies called for spear and
bow. The dense tropical vegetation had severely disabled the development
of spear-like devices. Lighter and faster arrows, launched in succession
were a far better proposition in the circumstances. The Small Nambas bow
is usually 1.5 meters long, made of springy hardwood timber branch,
which is carefully chosen in nearby bush. The timber is roughly shaped,
and without elaborate embellishments and with no pretence with its
overall appearance. Hemp string tied to both ends completes the weapon.
The arrows are light, dry bamboo canes with a notch but no flukes at the
rear end and a wide choice of points on the business end. Dark, strong
hardwood splinters are laboriously sharpened and firmly attached.
Depending on their length and diameter they are used against pigs or
humans. Cone shaped pieces of hardwood, hard coral bits or spent brass
rifle cartridges at the arrows fronts are also used for shooting birds.
After the WWII, when Australian and American troops were stationed on
other islands in the then New Hebrides, a very lively trade has been
instituted among different islands tribes for spend rifle cartridges and
Army machetes. 303 British spend brass and US Marine Corps Machete Mark
II are still collectors items on the tribal market stalls in the bush!
Arrows vary in length from
1.2 to 1.5 meters. When bracing the bow, the man brings the string back
only a couple of feet from the fore grip to launch his missile. The
arrow’s shaft rests on top of his forefinger at all times. The bow and
arrow lengths, shapes and weigh, material used and the techniques of
launching a shot are based on thousand years’ seasoning where the weapon
making skills and hunting experiences are traditionally passed on to
following generations. It takes only an hour for any of Small Nambas now
to make him a new bow if need arise! Arrows are made in continuous
manner; men are churning them out in remarkable abundance every day –
rain, hail or shine! Five-year youngsters sport the smaller scale bow
versions of a serious thing. They ape grown-ups skills under a watchful
eye of father, uncle or an older brother. The soft stump of the nearest
fern tree is the usual practice target. The more difficult moments arise
when a watermelon or a grapefruit is thrown up the air and young
apprentice to the trade has to place the shot correctly. Surprisingly,
those boys rarely miss the target during such trials!
Small Nambas are born
stalkers and hunters. Since times immemorial the well being of their
families has greatly depended on this particular artistry. Anything
alive in the bush is immediately noticed and then carefully followed.
Firstly with wide opened eyes and pricked ears, then with braced bow.
Birds, flying foxes, fish and shrimp in the river stream, and such are
all fair go at all times during the day or in the night. Those natives
seem to have developed their visual and hearing senses to a far greater
extend that might be expected! Once the prey is spotted and stalked to
an intelligent distance, arrows or spears are launched at them
regardless of chances. Even when the arrow is lost in the dark or among
the thick vegetation, it is still a relatively simple business to
replace it in no time! The constant need to supply the naturally
vegetarian society with protein calls for a more serious business of
wild pig hunting. Domesticated hogs are far too precious to be
slaughtered too often. Their nicely circled canine tusks represent great
wealth; consequently those critters are spared as long as possible.
Hence wild, feral bush pigs have to suffice when hunters need to refresh
their meat supply. Their country is steep and thick with foliage;
therefore hunting dogs are needed to track and ambush the pig. There is
always a
pack of a miserable looking dogs mooning around every village. Despite
their pitiful appearance, they are good hunting dogs! Small and skinny
those dogs are, but they would turn themselves into a smart and skilful
mob when pig-tracking time comes! Small Nambas pig hunters usually work
in pairs. They set off into the jungle in the late afternoon, bow and
arrows in hand, their dogs following their masters. Those men, after
they disappear in the bush, although after the wild hog in a first
place, they will never miss a chance to launch their arrows at anything
else on their way. When they are lucky to shoot anything edible while on
their forays, something like flying fox or a bat of any description,
they would leave those in a well defined place, wrapped in banana leaves
and to be collected on the way back. Once the wild pig is located and
held in place by dogs, men come into action and kill the creature with
their sharp pointed arrows. The sheer energy and a stopping power of
their arrows bring the pig down quick smart. Such hunt usually happens
well after sun goes down, and since those hunters are never aided by a
modern age technology like battery powered torches, scopes, binoculars
or infrared devices, one can only admire their skill and marksmanship
which they all been taught by their peers in years past! If the pig
carcass is too heavy for them to haul it down the hill to the village,
they call for help. There is no shortage of volunteers who help to carry
the carcass and skin it and butcher it. The entire carcass is then
justly divided between all villagers and is promptly cooked in a huge
cauldron!
Cattle were brought to
their island only a few decades ago. Islanders rather prefer pork to the
beef, and they do not drink milk but coconuts. However, a tone of a wild
beef on the hoof is very tempting, especially when one does not have to
purchase it for money and when it can be effectively hunted. It would
take hundreds of arrows to bring a wild bull to the ground, therefore
natives had to find some new technique how to kill such big animal for
the pot. Well, it takes a lot of guts to dash behind enraged wild bull
and hand slash his hind sinews with a machete! The second slash of the
other leg’s sinew is only half of the task! Now the beast is somehow
immobilized and ready target for an array of traditional arrows and
spears. Once dead, the bullock is skinned and quartered on site and meat
is transferred to the village in small portions. This is exactly the
same hunting technique which jungle Pygmies use when hunting elephants
in jungles of Zaire. Such hunting techniques were developed in distant
land independently when humans had to tackle animals, which are of a
monster size to them!
A different skill is
required when fishing. Netting or trapping the fish in a man-made up
dam is considered a waste of time, hence the freshwater species are
rather harvested by bow and four-pronged arrow. Such operations are
deemed to be fun for adults and good practice for young boys who must
learn the intricacies of properly aiming at the underwater target when
the refraction is present. In the past, Small Nambas used to dissolve a
pulp of certain roots in upstream waters, which affected fish. After
being effected with such organic drug, all fish downstream were belly up
in no time! They were not dead, just stunned! Women could pick them
dormant up at their leisure, once the harvest was completed and the best
pieces were collected from the surface, the poison loosened its grips in
short time, other fish were slowly awakening to themselves and no much
harm to their population was ever done! It seems this art of using
certain vegetable poisons to make fish dormant for some time is now
forgotten in the island.
Small Nambas practically
own some third of Malekula, which is their freehold realm, and the
tribal law is the only authority prevailing there. Until 1985 their
territories were off-limits to outside visitors. It was only after that
year when Small Nambas village chiefs had decided to accept guests on
their tribal grounds – on their own, customary and tribal terms of
course!
Small Nambas art is well
noted for its uniqueness within the Archipelago. Bird feathers, pig
tusks, clay, fern tree, local timbers, sea-side shells and coral pieces
are used to produce effigies, masks, carving and dancing costumes of
colorful and delicate designs.. Small Nambas are very artistic
orientated tribe among their kin in Vanuatu.
In 1985 I was one of the
first Europeans who were privileged to visit Small Nambas villages in
Malekula. Since then I have visited their tribal grounds on few more
occasions where I learned more about their ways and their environment.
During my next visits I took with me some adventure orientated
companions – firstly my boat crewmembers, then my son and lately my
friend from Sydney. Those were always remarkable expeditions into
“Unknown” and all my friends had later said those were the best
adventure they ever experienced in their entire life!
To
get to Small Nambas villages is not an easy task! In order to visit
them, one has to make initial appointment with their chief, then fly a
domestic route from Port Vila – the capital city of Vanuatu to one of
the field airstrips on Malekula and then make their way to the village
walking for a day or two through jungle trails under the supervision of
a locally hired tribal guide. Once in the village, the only
accommodation available would be in their village huts. A little co-op
grocery outlet on the coast, close to the landing strip provides for
basics like rice, sugar, matches, kerosene, and a limited choice of
canned food, cigarettes and warm beer. I have always stayed in the
village with Small Nambas and I have enjoyed their company tremendously.
Small Nambas are very curious and enchant able lot; they also like to
learn about “Other Island” from which you came from!
They are more than happy
to guide visitors around for a relatively small fee. One of the reasons
for that that one has to hire a local guide is the fact that there are
still plenty of taboo places around where visitors are not allowed.
Native’s just want to make sure one will not stumble on such areas like
graveyards or sacred dancing grounds incidentally!
Nakamals – Man’s Houses
where artistically made effigies of their ancestors are kept are still
off limits. However, if someone is interested in their art – effigies,
fern tree or timber or stone sculptures, those may be taken out of
Nakamal and showed to the visitors. However, it always had to be done in
strict supervision from elders with observation of certain custom rules.
There are also other
mysterious places worthy to visit while in the Small Nambas territory.
In the hills there are places where MIA WWII fighter pilots crash-landed
some years ago when coming back to Port Vila and Havannah Harbor
military airfields after repealing Japanese invaders over Coral Sea. In
those trying times, military were not that terribly bothered to send a
rescue mission after every MIA aircraft in the jungles of Malekula,
consequently those planes are still sitting there, along with the
skeletons of the pilots in the cockpits, still in their flying jackets
and side arms. Locals know of those sites, they have seen those planes
and human remnants inside them and they can take you there, although it
would call for a few days of some strenuous walks across mountain
ridges.
As
till today, nobody had ever made any attempts to find and record those
sites, neither to take care of those pilots remains there! Here and
there in the hilly jungles there are some basalt boulders which were
traditionally used by tribal people to sharpen their stone tools
against, well before first metal pieces had been introduced to Malekula.
Older members of the tribe have some vivid memories, either their own or
as they have been told by their fathers, of “black birders” forays to
their shores from Australia (Australian slave traders who preyed on
unsuspecting natives in Melanesia at the turn of the century!), of times
when shipwrecked European seafarers were killed and put to earth ovens
providing for a cannibalistic feasts over “The Long White Pig”. There
are also persistent rumors that a hairy, ape like monster creature
called Sep-Sep still dwells in the hills. Some time ago a sample of some
strange hair or fur was found along jungle trail on the tree branch and
send to the coast for further examinations. .
